Appee Payasam

The basic ingredients in a payasam include milk, rice, ghee and jaggery. It is garnished using dry fruits such as almonds, cashews, raisins, dry coconut (copra), etc. There is a popular version of North Indian kheer, prepared during festivals and havan in Varanasi which uses only milk, rice, ghee, sugar, cardamom, dried fruit, and kesar (saffron milk). It is an essential dish in many Hindu feasts, weddings, and celebrations.

While the dish is most often made with rice, it can also be made with other ingredients, such as vermicelli (semiya in South India, seviyan, sayviah, or other spellings) or tapioca (locally called sabudana). The Kashmir equivalent of payasam is firni which is made with semolina (suji), milk, saffron, sugar, dry fruits, etc.

In Gujarat, a variation of kheer known as d?dp?k, is made. The ingredients remain largely the same, but the cooking process is different and dudhpak is less dense and thick than kheer. The Odiya version, called kheeri is an integral part of the food served to the god at Jagannath Puri temple. The South Indian version, payasam (in Tamil, Malayalam, Telugu) or payasa (in Kannada), is an integral part of traditional South Indian meals and in festivals. South Indian payasam makes
extensive use of jaggery (vellam, bellam, bella, sharkkara) and coconut milk in place of sugar and milk. Vermicelli (semiya) is commonly used. The most common types of payasam in South India include milk payasam, sago/tapioca pearl payasam, Semiya (vermicelli) payasam, Paruppu payasam, Nei (clarified butter) payasam (also known as Aravana payasam), Carrot payasam, Wheat payasam, Wheat rava (wheat semolina)payasam, and Arisi Thengai (coconut and rice) payasam, Payasam is less thicker compared to kheer. In a South Indian meal, payasam or payasa, is served first at any formal or auspicious occasion.

Payasam is also served after rasam rice, while rice with buttermilk forms the last item of the meal. Payasam also forms an integral part of the Kerala feast (sadya), where it is served and relished from a flat banana leaf. In Kerala cuisine, there are several different kinds of payasam that can be prepared from a wide variety of fruits and starch bases. For e.g. chakkapradhaman made from jackfruit pulp and adapradhaman made from flat ground rice.

Karnataka payasa variants include the popular gasa-gase payasa made with poppy seeds, coconut (ground or grated), jaggery and a few almonds added at the end. Another one is the appey payasa which is poori (a deep fried flat bread made of wheat) with payasa. Akki payasa is made with rice, milk and jaggery, shavige payasa has vermicelli added to akki payasa or gasagase payasa. Hesaru payasa is made with green gram pulses or moong dal, jaggery and coconut milk. Godhi huggi is made with broken wheat, jaggery and coconut milk. Finally, the ell-neeru payasa is a coastal dish
made from tender coconut.

Payasa, Kheer/Kheeri etc. are also auspicious food fed to an infant during the annaprasanna ceremony, its birthdays or janmatithi, bhog prasad in the temples of Bihar, Bengal, Orissa.

The most basic payasam/kheer is the rice payasam.

• Take a tray and put semolina into it and set aside. Add milk ( 4 palam) to the semolina and knead well. After an hour, pound it in the pounder to soften it. Sprinkle some milk while pounding the flour.
• Take gooseberry sized balls from the dough and make it into a papad. While the papad is wet, refer to the diagram on page 73 and make cross marks on it. By doing this, the papads will not break into pieces when put in the payasam.
• Boil ghee in an iron pot and fry the pappad one by one and smash it into smaller pieces. Keep it in a vessel.
• Boil milk in a pot that can hold 3 padis of water. Stir it continuously with an iron ladle. Otherwise the milk may burn from the bottom and over boil or leak away.
• When the milk thickens, add sugar along with the smashed and powdered papads.
• Soak almonds in hot water, remove the skin and cut them into slices. Fry the almonds in ghee and add it along with the fried poppy seeds. Add powdered cardamom, nutmeg powder and mace to the payasam.

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